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Ice Climbing
Version 1, changed by admin. 08/07/2007. Show version history
Here is a quick and nasty ice climbing guide for the West Kootenays. This is not the main reason most people come to the Kootenays but ice climbers have a great reputation for being a desperate bunch - so here is the info as I see it.
No names, just vague locations.
Nakusp: This is the centre for ice climbing in the West Kootenays.
Kuskanax Creek, from Nakusp follow signs to the Nakusp Hot springs. On the wrong side of Kuskanux creek are a series of ice flows ranging from grade 3 to the big two pitch grade V. A little problematic in access but beautiful looking ice.
Galena Bay Ferry Terminal, about 20 minutes north of Nakusp the roads makes a broad sweeping right hand corner with a 50m rock and tree buttress on the east side of the highway. There are three ice climbs in here ranging from grade 2 to grade IV two pitch climbs. This is the most reliable ice climbing in the Kootenays
Inconempleuax Valley, north of Galena Bay on the road to Trout Lake. On the rare occasions that this road is plowed, or for those with snowmobiles there are quite a few cool looking climbs in here. In 1994 or so we climbed a two pitch grade III near the head of the valley. The access into the valley goes through a very tight rock lined valley with the road built up on stilts. On both side of the creek are a series of grade III - V climbs (1 and 2 pitch) in length. We were in there in late March and things were beginning to fall apart. Very cool area. Further in the valley are two side by side grade III/IV 4-5 pitch length. This looks like the destination area. All climbs are within 3 km of the head of the valley. This road is rarely plowed.
Summit Lakes, between New Denver and Nakusp. There is a grade III climb on the eastern side of the highway on the south side of the lake.
Slocan Valley, North Bannock Burn: the road to Gimli and Mulvey Basin. About 6 km up this road is a 20 m x 20 m grade II wall that comes right off the logging road. 3 years ago this was plowed. No longer. Snowmobile. Great instruction area or practise area. Another 50-100m up the road is an incredibly cool and aerated pillar with no protection possibilities. At least three people decked here the one winter the road was open. grade III/IV no pro but huge and 40m
Slocan Valley, north end of Slocan Ridge (the big buttress and gash way up high on the ridge) A long 3 or 4 hour approach in good snow conditions to a wall of ice that formed well in 1995. 2-4 pitches of good to thin ice over rock in solid grade III/IV. The wall was about 50 meters wide. Lotsa ice. Rappel from climbers left on trees.
Slocan Valley, The big one. Just above Crescent Valley at the high point on the road follow drainage - this probably is all private property, so govern yourself accordingly. A long series of waterfall pillars. five in total, starting with a 50m grade V free standing pillar which is not often present, or complete. The next pillars are slightly easier grade IV, and culminating in another free standing grade V pillar at the very top. Very spectacular gullies with huge rock wall on both sides for the intimidation factor. Not many climbers in this skiers paradise get the pump up to complete the first V. So not often climbed.
Slocan Valley, Slocan City. Located on the road cut above town heading north. Seldom very thick, on rock slabs, but culminating 150-200m higher in a series of short and very hard pillars with awesome exposure. Not sure if anyone has done anything but fool around on this stuff. Kind of solo material - not sure if the lower ice ever get thick enough to sink a 6 inch ice screw into.Top pillars look pretty cool though.
Meadow Creek, A series of 4-6 ice pillars and smears above the town of Meadow Creek at the north end of Kootenay Lake. A few people have fooled around here. Looks solid III/IV single pitch 1 hr approaches.
The Dams. Private Property. Some people have climbed on ice seeps around the Brilliant dam, near Castlegar and the Nelson dams but these are all on PROHIBITED LAND.
Alpine Ice: Check out the North face of Archduke in Glacier Creek for an Athabasca type scenario. 45 for 8-10 pitches.
Thats about it folks. If anyone wants to start getting picky and naming these - let us know. We have a fairly good idea when they were climbed first so go for it first ascentionists! Let us know any new route info. Thanks
No names, just vague locations.
Nakusp: This is the centre for ice climbing in the West Kootenays.
Kuskanax Creek, from Nakusp follow signs to the Nakusp Hot springs. On the wrong side of Kuskanux creek are a series of ice flows ranging from grade 3 to the big two pitch grade V. A little problematic in access but beautiful looking ice.
Galena Bay Ferry Terminal, about 20 minutes north of Nakusp the roads makes a broad sweeping right hand corner with a 50m rock and tree buttress on the east side of the highway. There are three ice climbs in here ranging from grade 2 to grade IV two pitch climbs. This is the most reliable ice climbing in the Kootenays
Inconempleuax Valley, north of Galena Bay on the road to Trout Lake. On the rare occasions that this road is plowed, or for those with snowmobiles there are quite a few cool looking climbs in here. In 1994 or so we climbed a two pitch grade III near the head of the valley. The access into the valley goes through a very tight rock lined valley with the road built up on stilts. On both side of the creek are a series of grade III - V climbs (1 and 2 pitch) in length. We were in there in late March and things were beginning to fall apart. Very cool area. Further in the valley are two side by side grade III/IV 4-5 pitch length. This looks like the destination area. All climbs are within 3 km of the head of the valley. This road is rarely plowed.
Summit Lakes, between New Denver and Nakusp. There is a grade III climb on the eastern side of the highway on the south side of the lake.
Slocan Valley, North Bannock Burn: the road to Gimli and Mulvey Basin. About 6 km up this road is a 20 m x 20 m grade II wall that comes right off the logging road. 3 years ago this was plowed. No longer. Snowmobile. Great instruction area or practise area. Another 50-100m up the road is an incredibly cool and aerated pillar with no protection possibilities. At least three people decked here the one winter the road was open. grade III/IV no pro but huge and 40m
Slocan Valley, north end of Slocan Ridge (the big buttress and gash way up high on the ridge) A long 3 or 4 hour approach in good snow conditions to a wall of ice that formed well in 1995. 2-4 pitches of good to thin ice over rock in solid grade III/IV. The wall was about 50 meters wide. Lotsa ice. Rappel from climbers left on trees.
Slocan Valley, The big one. Just above Crescent Valley at the high point on the road follow drainage - this probably is all private property, so govern yourself accordingly. A long series of waterfall pillars. five in total, starting with a 50m grade V free standing pillar which is not often present, or complete. The next pillars are slightly easier grade IV, and culminating in another free standing grade V pillar at the very top. Very spectacular gullies with huge rock wall on both sides for the intimidation factor. Not many climbers in this skiers paradise get the pump up to complete the first V. So not often climbed.
Slocan Valley, Slocan City. Located on the road cut above town heading north. Seldom very thick, on rock slabs, but culminating 150-200m higher in a series of short and very hard pillars with awesome exposure. Not sure if anyone has done anything but fool around on this stuff. Kind of solo material - not sure if the lower ice ever get thick enough to sink a 6 inch ice screw into.Top pillars look pretty cool though.
Meadow Creek, A series of 4-6 ice pillars and smears above the town of Meadow Creek at the north end of Kootenay Lake. A few people have fooled around here. Looks solid III/IV single pitch 1 hr approaches.
The Dams. Private Property. Some people have climbed on ice seeps around the Brilliant dam, near Castlegar and the Nelson dams but these are all on PROHIBITED LAND.
Alpine Ice: Check out the North face of Archduke in Glacier Creek for an Athabasca type scenario. 45 for 8-10 pitches.
Thats about it folks. If anyone wants to start getting picky and naming these - let us know. We have a fairly good idea when they were climbed first so go for it first ascentionists! Let us know any new route info. Thanks
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